A ring at any cost!

  • A ring at any cost!

  • According to statistics, rings are the item of jewellery most worn by women, regardless of their budget. These little mini-sculptures also offer designers the opportunity to express their artistic talent. Here’s a look back at the new rings in the precious jewellery (silver, gold) section at the January edition of BIJORHCA PARIS.



    True vintage

    The jewellery may be modern, but vintage-inspiration is the order of the day, as we saw in the hammered-effect rings by Astorga Jewels. This Portuguese brand combines silver and gold in pretty rings adorned with zirconium oxides, which could easily have come from a bygone era. Representing the brand Théma Créations, designer Catherine Lestrat brought silver swivel rings, some covered in gold leaf. These authentic, customisable creations, made using traditional techniques, come in numerous combinations of hammered granular metal. Portuguese designer Tania Gil, who operates from Lisbon, goes even further by taking her inspiration from submerged relics. Her Underwater Habitat ring uses oxidised copper on silver to imitate a seaweed finish, evoking the depths of the ocean. The leather-crafted and amber cabochon ring by the brand Opalook, well-known for its incredible collection of amber jewellery, evokes 18th century splendour and the famous antechamber of Catherine the Great in Russia. Barcelona-based El Expreso de Oriente takes us back to the volutes of the Art Nouveau years with a beautiful coral on silver ring. Barcelona is also famous for Antoni Gaudí, the illustrious artist responsible for the most beautiful architecture of the period such as Park Güell and the Sagrada Familia. This collection is a wonderful tribute to Catalan Modernism, Barcelona’s own Art Nouveau!

    • Astorga Jewels

      Astorga Jewels

      Silver, gold and zirconium oxide rings
    • Théma Créations

      Théma Créations

      Silver swivel rings, some covered in gold leaf
    • Tania Gil

      Tania Gil

      Underwater Habitat ring made from silver and oxidised copper
    • Opalook

      Opalook

      Leatherwork and amber cabochon ring
    • El Expreso de Oriente

      El Expreso de Oriente

      Coral on silver ring
  • Art-chitecture

    For some designers, the ring is a vehicle of their artistic expression. Bruno da Rocha, for example, creates oversized 3D rings profiling the facets of a stone with a silver or vermeil structure. Bruno is a creative talent and a big name all over the world, from New York to Paris, Helsinki and Milan. This artistic approach is shared by Dukley Jewelry, a Montenegro brand which commissioned Swedish designer Ekaterina Sisfontes and Russian scientist Alexander Guadelaitis to create its BlackMountain collection. Combining a time-honoured filigree technique with innovative design, the curved triangular ring draws its inspiration from nature and the soaring mountains of Montenegro. Polish designer Marcin Zaremski also loves understated shapes, as can be seen in his silver or vermeil rings which come in pairs. His preferred use of matt underlines the purity of the design. Portuguese designer Inês Telles, on the other hand, opted for a granulated effect for her Ilhas ring. The small granule fragments represent steep island cliffs, thereby giving the design a powerful edge.

    • Bruno da Rocha

      Bruno da Rocha

      Vermeil ring
    • Dukley Jewelry

      Dukley Jewelry

      Ring from the BlackMountain collection
    • Marcin Zaremski

      Marcin Zaremski

      Matt vermeil and silver rings
    • Inês Telles

      Inês Telles

      Ilhas granulated silver ring
  • Mini minimalism

    Minimalism is one of the basic trends which can be used to design inexpensive, yet totally unique, jewellery. Atelier Errikos, founded in Athens in 1999 by Maria Chatzalexi and Errikos Andreopoulos, is a case in point. Their rings comprise two bands of black rhodium plated silver, which are crossed and linked by a little gold crown set with shiny rubies and tsavorites. The ring from Italian brand Alexiane – Desideria has a Renaissance feel, featuring a small black diamond-shaped onyx dotted with tiny granules. Being based in Cap d’Agde on the Mediterranean coast, it is only natural that Sable Chaud should find its inspiration in the sea and geometrical shapes, as in this silver mooring ring attached to a band. Clo&Lou creations are a clever fusion of Asia and the west. For her Mimosa ring, French designer Bénédicte Cospain took her inspiration from sequinned Balinese costumes. The ring has two silver paillettes mounted as charms. The brand Sing a Song came about when a rock musician met a jewellery-maker. Guitar strings are transformed into jewellery, either as simple twists or decorated with guitar motifs.

    • Atelier Errikos

      Atelier Errikos

      Black rhodium silver rings set with rubies and tsavorites
    • Alexiane – Desideria

      Alexiane – Desideria

      Black onyx on silver with a rose gold finish
    • Sable Chaud

      Sable Chaud

      Silver band
    • Clo&Lou

      Clo&Lou

      Mimosa ring with two silver paillette charms
    • Sing a Song

      Sing a Song

      Ring made from guitar strings
  • Big Blue

    Summer is on its way and we are inexorably drawn to images of azure skies and seas. The brand Blue Stone takes us on a journey with its collection made from Larimar, a stone discovered in the Dominican Republic. Its Luxury ring is made from motifs of finely-chiselled silver mounted with a blue lagoon cabochon. Doriane, on the other hand, looks to the feather trend, adding the collection’s trademark turquoise cabochon. Anaïs Beard, a designer from the French city of Lyon, explores the riches of the seabed for her Caps&Co brand. Her Sea Flower ring, made from silver and cold-painted ceramic, recreates the magic of the aquatic world. Larim’Art’s Larimar cabochon evokes the sun’s rays on the sea. The seaweed-shaped prongs keep a tight hold on this extraordinary dazzling stone.

    • Blue Stone

      Blue Stone

      Luxury silver ring in fine-chiselled silver with a Larimar cabochon
    • Doriane

      Doriane

      Silver ring decorated with a turquoise cabochon
    • Caps&Co

      Caps&Co

      Sea Flower silver and cold-painted ceramic ring
    • Larim’Art

      Larim’Art

      Larimar cabochon on silver
  • Over the Rainbow

    Finally, we have a beautiful tribute to Judy Garland in the Wizard of Oz. The infinite colours of fine stones inspired Frédéric Jaques to create BAM Bijoux Monic. His Callas collection pays homage to another great diva. Like precious musical notes, the coloured cabochons (amethyst, malachite, opal, etc) are encircled with hematite. Senzou Bijoux has opted for a more minimalist approach with her Idylle rings in the many, many colours of rose opals, carnelians, moonstones, lapis lazuli and other gemstones. In a splash of bright colours, Russian designer Kabarovsky’s ring has a striking yellow quartz “sun” surrounded by flowers. And to complete the picture, Ribambelle designs rings for children in the shape of pink clouds or little birds, made from real drawings covered in resin, and Georgia Charal’s ring of little enamel poppies on vermeil ends the show on a high note!

    • BAM Bijoux Monic

      BAM Bijoux Monic

      Callas rings with coloured cabochons (amethysts, malachite, opal, etc.), encircled with hematites set in silver
    • Senzou Bijoux

      Senzou Bijoux

      Idylle precious stone rings (rose opals, carnelians, moonstones, etc.)
    • Kabarovsky

      Kabarovsky

      Yellow quartz on yellow gold ring
    • Ribambelle

      Ribambelle

      Pink cloud rings, resin-covered drawings
    • Georgia Charal

      Georgia Charal

      Enamel poppies on vermeil ring
  • Written by Kyra Brenzinger

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