Brooches back in favour!

  • Brooches back in favour!

  • The brooch, somewhat neglected in recent years, is coming out of obscurity as a key daywear accessory that can be adapted to your mood or personality. Let’s lift the lid on some designs appearing at the forthcoming BIJORHCA PARIS.



    Nature back in force

    Brooches in fascinating flora and fauna shapes go back to René Lalique and Art Nouveau. For her “Métamorphose” line, designer Victorian Rehab marries real butterfly and beetle wings with brass and resin to create an exceptionally beautiful cabinet of curiosities. Portuguese designer Bruno da Rocha is fascinated by insects. For him, they must be extra-large and worn on a jacket lapel. His impressive spiders are decorated in rock crystal and onyx and his charming dragonflies are set with aquamarine and haematoid quartz. Mbex has exhibited at BIJORHCA PARIS for several years now, travelling from Brazil with pieces made from woven natural gold-coloured straw decorated with an exotic bird made from coloured beads. His “Fauna do Tocantins” brooch pays tribute to the extraordinary fauna which grows on the banks of the River Tocantins in the state of the same name. French brand Taratata also takes its inspiration from water for the fish brooch in its “Bonita” collection. Made from silver-plated metal and hand-painted resin, the little fish is adorned with shiny paillettes to look like silver scales. Lili la Pie fish-shaped “Sauzon” brooch appears to be dangling from a fishing line. Elise Faucheux, designer at Liz Créations, specialises in jewellery made from rolls of polymer paste. Her fish is a colourful mosaic creation with a slightly comic strip feel. L’Indochineur operates between Paris and Hanoi, crafting coloured lacquer jewellery. Calling upon the talents of skilled artisans in Vietnam, the brand’s artistic director Lyla Denoyel designs butterflies, dragonflies and exotic flowers from lacquered buffalo horn. Miss Pompon showcases beautiful flowers on enamelled metal discs adorned with glass beads and pom-poms. Laeti Trema is known for her jewellery with exotic names and shapes. Her “Madagascar” brooch replicates the majestic foliage of palm trees with enamel detail.

  • Name Hades

    • Victorian Rehab

      Victorian Rehab

      “Chrysalide Nero” butterfly brooch in brass and resin
    • Bruno da Rocha

      Bruno da Rocha

      Araignée brooch in rock crystal and vermeil
    • Mbex

      Mbex

      “Fauna do Tocantins” brooch in woven natural gold-coloured straw with a coloured pearl exotic bird
    • Taratata

      Taratata

      Fish brooch from the “Bonita” collection in silver-plated metal and hand-painted resin
    • Lili la Pie

      Lili la Pie

      “Sauzon” brooch in silver covered pewter
    • Liz Créations

      Liz Créations

      Poisson brooch made from coloured polymer paste
    • L’Indochineur

      L’Indochineur

      Buffalo horn dragonfly covered in lacquer
    • Miss Pompon

      Miss Pompon

      Enamelled brass disc decorated with glass beads and pom-poms
    • Laeti Trema

      Laeti Trema

      “Madagascar” brooch in golden metal with enamel detail
  • Retro brought bang up to date

    Victorian and 60s brooches are becoming seriously fashionable again. Examples include the colourful creations of Brazilian Maria Santas who does not shy away from contrast with her combination of green resin and fuchsia, yellow and red crystals. Satellite is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Known for elegance right down to the last detail, their “Gabriella” line looks to the Baroque era for inspiration, with an intricately-worked brooch adorned with river pearls, coral and glass beads. In a romantic nod to Princess Sissi, Bijoux A Monic (BAM) has created a brooch from real garnets set on vermeil in the shape of two “toi et moi” flowers. It’s guaranteed to melt any heart. German designer Krikor works with Swarovski crystal in all its forms. His brooch reworks the daisy in a style which harks back to the Victorian era. From young brand Made in Parisienne we have a touch of playfulness with regal crowns which would add a quirky touch to any leather or denim jacket.

  • Name Hades

    • Maria Santas

      Maria Santas

      Green resin brooches set with fuchsia, yellow and red crystal
    • Satellite

      Satellite

      Intricately-worked “Gabriella” brooch decorated with river pearls, coral and glass beads
    • Bijoux A Monic (BAM)

      Bijoux A Monic (BAM)

      Brooch made from real garnets set on vermeil
    • Krikor

      Krikor

      Swarovski crystal brooch
    • Made in Parisienne

      Made in Parisienne

      Grey, black or gilded silver brooch
  • When the brooch becomes a work of art

    Sometimes modern and surrealistic, jewellery states its claim on art. For Danish brand Dansk Smykkekunst, this is translated into clean shapes in a stacked brooch called “Veronika”, available in four colourways including gilded copper batons. Architecture enthusiast, and a particular fan of the work of Le Corbusier, Sidney Carron offers his artistic interpretation of the brooch in pieces with names such as “Morcellement” (breaking up) and “Plissé” (pleated), which wouldn’t be out of place in a museum. Designer Marie Duvert’s jewellery is fashioned in the form of atom structures but the true innovation is her clip brooch which can be slipped onto different areas of a garment. Named “Cust” (from customise), it can be worn on the edge of a collar or a turned back cuff, or pinned on a jacket in the more traditional manner.

    The designers at BIJORHCA PARIS are never short of ideas. Prepare to be dazzled!

  • Name Hades

    • Dansk Smykkekunst

      Dansk Smykkekunst

      “Veronika” in gilded copper
    • Sidney Carron

      Sidney Carron

      “Plissé” silver-plated brooch
    • Marie Duvert

      Marie Duvert

      “Cust” clip brooch in silver-plated brass
  • Written by Kyra Brenzinger

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